Mukaish work, also Mukesh work or Mokesh work, has been a cultural pride for Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh. This embroidery can be seen in a majority of Lucknowi wear such as salwar kameez and kurti as well as bridal lehengas.
This embroidery mostly involves using twisted metallic threads and creating patterns over already drawn patterns, creating beautiful masterpieces.
Mukaish work originates in the city of Lucknow and has been popularized worldwide through various designers. This art was designed to be worn by the Lucknowi royalty of that time as it involved the use of precious metals and stones. Mukaish work has since been made available to everyone who can afford it. As this art form involves the use of precious metals and stones, along with highly skilled karigari which are rare to find thanks to the gradually dying industry, it is one of the expensive pieces that are considered status symbols.
The creation of Mukaish work involves three steps, namely chhapayi, takayi and ghutayi. Chhapayi, which literally means printing, involves either block printing or stenciling the desired pattern on either Georgette or chiffon fabrics using a mixture of neel and gum. Takayi, which means to stitch, involves the karigar heating the metal into paper-thin wires so they could be worked on with a needle on the delicate fabrics. The two varieties of Mukaish work patterns, which are Kamdani and Fardi ka kaam, are woven into the fabric. Kamdani work is recognized by a wider range of patterns and motifs, often called as fancy kaam. In Fardi ka Kaam, the Hazar Batti (thousand dots) pattern, Tikki (flat sequins) and chhalla (rings) are popular patterns. After that, ghutayi consists of the fabric being stretched out and is rubbed over with a bottle to even out lumps in the embroidery.
Mukaish work is considered a dying art form because of the availability of machines has replaced humans. It is easy to get fooled by the huge volume of fakes available in the market. To make sure you buy only authentic Mukaish work, do visit us at our store at LuxurionWorld.